"For a man trying to get a persistent worry out of his mind, the top of Haystacks is a wonderful cure." So wrote Alfred Wainwright, who chose this fell as his final resting place. Despite being surrounded by higher mountains, Haystacks holds a special allure with its rugged character, craggy outcrops, and secret tarns. This classic route from Gatesgarth is a challenging but immensely rewarding walk, full of interest from start to finish.
The Walk at a Glance
4 - 5 Hours
Circular Route
5 Miles / 8 km
Steep and rugged
Challenging
Scrambling required
Navigation Skills
Needed in mist
Step-by-Step Guide
1. Start at Gatesgarth Farm
The walk begins at the pay-and-display car park at Gatesgarth Farm, at the head of Buttermere (CA13 9XA). Cross the road and take the well-signposted path for Scarth Gap, which crosses Peggy's Bridge over Warnscale Beck.
2. The Climb to Scarth Gap
The path climbs steeply alongside a plantation before emerging onto the open fell. This is a tough, unrelenting ascent on a stone-pitched path, but the views back over Buttermere provide a good excuse for frequent rests.
3. The Scramble up Haystacks
At the col of Scarth Gap, turn left. The route now becomes a scramble, requiring hands on rock. Follow the path as it finds its way up the craggy western ridge of Haystacks. There are no major difficulties, but care is needed, especially in wet weather.
4. The Summit and Innominate Tarn
The true summit (597m) is a rocky knoll amidst a fascinating landscape of crags and pools. A short distance further along the path is Innominate Tarn, a place of great beauty and pilgrimage, where Wainwright's ashes were scattered. It's a perfect spot to stop and reflect.
5. The Descent via Warnscale Bottom
From Innominate Tarn, follow the path as it descends towards Blackbeck Tarn, then drops steeply down alongside Warnscale Beck. This path, an old quarryman's route, is rough and loose in places but offers dramatic views down into the Warnscale Bottom valley, eventually leading you back to Gatesgarth Farm.
Visitor Information & Tips
- This is a serious walk: Despite its moderate length, this is a challenging mountain walk with scrambling and steep, rough paths. Go prepared with proper hiking boots, waterproofs, and navigation equipment.
- Parking: The car park at Gatesgarth is relatively small and extremely popular. An early start is essential to secure a space.
- Navigation: The summit plateau of Haystacks is complex and can be very disorienting in mist. Do not attempt this walk in poor visibility unless you are a confident navigator.
- Alternative Start: You can also start this walk from Honister Pass, approaching via Dubs Quarry, which offers a slightly less strenuous ascent.
More to Explore Nearby
Fleetwith Pike
For another challenging walk from Gatesgarth, the direct ascent of Fleetwith Pike via Fleetwith Edge is a thrilling scramble with an iconic view back down to Buttermere.
Buttermere Village
After your walk, drive to the picturesque village of Buttermere for a well-earned drink at one of its two pubs or a famous ice cream from the Syke Farm cafe.
Honister Slate Mine
Drive up the dramatic Honister Pass to visit England's last working slate mine. Take an underground tour or, for a real adrenaline rush, try the Via Ferrata climbing routes on the cliff face.