For those seeking a sense of true wilderness and solitude, the walk to Harter Fell from the head of Haweswater is an unforgettable experience. This is a proper mountain day in one of the Lake District's most remote valleys. The route involves a steep climb up the ancient Nan Bield Pass, passing the beautiful Small Water, before a final push to the summit. The rewards are magnificent views and a profound sense of achievement.
The Walk at a Glance
4 Hours
Circular Route
4 Miles / 6.4 km
Steep and rocky
Challenging
Mountain environment
Navigation Skills
Essential for this walk
Step-by-Step Guide
1. Start at Mardale Head
The walk starts from the car park at the very end of the public road at Mardale Head, on the shore of Haweswater reservoir (CA10 2RP). This is a remote spot, so be prepared. Take the path that heads south-west from the car park, signposted for Nan Bield.
2. Approach to Small Water
The clear path follows the course of Small Water Beck, climbing steadily into a classic hanging valley. The scenery is dramatic and wild. After about a mile, you will reach the shore of the beautiful Small Water tarn, nestled beneath the crags.
3. The Climb up Nan Bield Pass
From the tarn, the hard work begins. The path now zig-zags very steeply up the headwall of the valley to reach the top of the Nan Bield Pass, marked by a distinctive stone shelter. This is an ancient packhorse route connecting Mardale with the Kentmere valley.
4. To Harter Fell Summit
At the shelter, turn left and follow the path that climbs along the ridge. This final section is much gentler, and you soon arrive at the summit of Harter Fell (778m). The summit is marked by a cairn adorned with old iron fence posts, a remnant of the old county boundary.
5. The Descent via Gatescarth Pass
From the summit, take the clear path heading east, which follows the ridge line and offers spectacular views down the length of Haweswater. This path descends steeply to meet the top of another old pass, Gatescarth Pass. Turn left here and follow the zig-zagging track all the way back down to the car park at Mardale Head.
Visitor Information & Tips
- A Remote Valley: The drive to Mardale Head is long, on narrow, single-track roads. There are no facilities (no toilets, cafe, or phone signal) at the car park. Go fully prepared.
- Mountain Conditions: This is a serious mountain walk. Check the weather forecast, carry full waterproofs, warm layers, food, water, and have a map and compass (and know how to use them).
- The Drowned Village: Haweswater was dammed in the 1930s to supply water to Manchester, controversially submerging the village of Mardale Green. In times of drought, the ghostly remains of the old village can sometimes be seen.
- Golden Eagles: Mardale was famously home to England's last pair of resident golden eagles. While they are no longer present, the RSPB maintains a viewpoint in the valley, and it's still a haven for wildlife.
More to Explore Nearby
High Street
From Nan Bield Pass, you can extend the walk by turning right instead of left to climb to the summit of High Street, named after the Roman road that runs across its broad, flat summit.
The Riggindale Ridge
For one of the finest ridge walks in the Lake District, tackle the Riggindale Ridge horseshoe, which climbs from Mardale Head over Rough Crag and High Street before returning via Mardale Ill Bell.
Shap Abbey
On your drive back from Haweswater, make a detour to visit the impressive ruins of Shap Abbey, an atmospheric and peaceful English Heritage site in the Lowther Valley.